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▪ I. camlet, n.|ˈkæmlɪt| Forms: 5 chamlyt, chamelet(t, 5–6 chamlett, 5–7 cham(e)lot, 6 chambelot, 6–7 chamblet(t, 6–8 chamlet, 6–9 camblet, 7 chamolet, camelott, camlott, 7–8 camelot, 7– camlet. [app. immediately from French: Littré cites chamelot 13th c., camelot 16th c.; Cotgr. translates F. camelot, ‘chamlet’; Du Cange has med.L. camelotum; Anglo-French statutes of Edward IV have chamelett, and the spelling with cham- was the prevalent one in English till after the Restoration. The ultimate origin is obscure; at the earliest known date the word was associated (by Europeans) with camel, as if stuff made of camel's hair; but there is reason to think it was originally the Arabic khamlat, from khaml; Marco Polo (ed. Yule) I. 248 (Skeat). Khaml, khamlat, is explained by Lane as ‘the nap or pile or villous substance on the surface of cloth’; khamlat, by Johnson, as ‘camelot, silk and camel's hair, also, all silk or velvet, especially pily and plushy’. According to Littré, the Journal officiel of 1874, p. 3220/1, says camelot is so called from the Arabic seil el kemel, the Angora goat; cf. camel-yarn.] A name originally applied to some beautiful and costly eastern fabric, afterwards to imitations and substitutes the nature of which has changed many times over. ‘A kind of stuff originally made by a mixture of silk and camel's hair; it is now made with wool and silk’ (J.). ‘A light stuff, formerly much used for female apparel, made of long wool, hard spun, sometimes mixed in the loom with cotton or linen yarn’ (Ure). It is uncertain whether it was ever made of camel's hair; but in the 16th and 17th c. it was made of the hair of the Angora goat. According to Beck, Draper's Dict., ‘In [the] production [of camlets], the changes have been rung with all materials in nearly every possible combination; sometimes of wool, sometimes of silk, sometimes of hair, sometimes of hair with wool or silk, at others of silk and wool warp and hair woof..Those of our day have had cotton and linen introduced into their composition. They have been made plain and twilled, of single warp and weft, of double warp, and sometimes with double weft also’.
c1400Epiph. (Turnb. 1843) 114 Wer ther of gold any clothes fownde..Or was ther any chamlyt or satyn. a1413Inv. Wardrobe Hen. IV (Draper's Dict.), Seven yards of red chamlett at 13s. 4d. the remnant. 1423Jas. I. Kingis Q. clvii, There sawe I..For chamelot, the camel full of hare. 1472Act 12 Edw. IV, iii, Satens, Sarcenetz & Tarterons Chamelettis & autres Draps de soie, & dore & soie. 1532–3Act 24 Hen. VIII, xiii, Silke, chamblet, or taffata. 1578Florio 1st Fruites 10, I wil buy..Velvet, Grograyne, Satten, Makadowe, Chambelot. 1615G. Sandys Trav. 15 Natolia affoording great store of Chamolets and Grogerams. 1634Sir T. Herbert Trav. 146 Some of rich gold or silver Chamlets, and other of cloth of gold. 1635Swan Spec. M. (1670) 398 Camblet..of Camels hair as some do affirm. 1644Evelyn Diary (1871) 64, I went to see their manufactures in silke, their pressing and watering the grograms and chambletts. 1680Morden Geog. Rect. (1685) 327 Famous..for good Chamlets. 1714Gay Trivia i. 46 Show'rs soon drench the Camlet's cockled Grain. 1727De Foe Eng. Tradesm. xxvi. (1841) I. 266 Camlets from Norwich. 1756Nugent Gr. Tour I. 98 Here [Leyden] they make..camblets, tho' inferior to those of Great Britain. 1774Goldsm. Nat. Hist. II. 35 Stuffs made from the hair of [the Angora goat] are well known among us by the name of camlet. 1812J. Smyth Pract. Customs 256 Mohair..is commonly imported ready spun, and is woven into camblets. 1815Elphinstone Acc. Caubul (1842) II. 87 The tents..are of a kind of black blanket, or rather of coarse camlet. b. watered (water) camlet: camlet with a wavy or watered surface; cf. Fr. camelot à ondes (Cotgr.).
1596Spenser F.Q. iv. xi. 45 Wav'd upon, like water chamelot. 1601Holland Pliny I. 228 The waued water Chamelot, was from the beginning esteemed the richest and brauest wearing. 1624Bacon New Atl. (1650) 3 A Gowne..of a kinde of Water Chamolet, of an excellent Azure Colour. 1658Rowland Mouffet's Theat. Ins. 961 Wings as if it were watered Chamblet. 1719D'Urfey Pills (1872) VI. 95 A watered Camlet Gown she had. c. A garment made of camlet. Also fig.
1613Shakes. Hen. VIII, v. iv. 93 You i' th' Chamblet, get vp o' th' raile. 1648Herrick Hesper. I. 64 Cloath'd in her chamlets of delight. 1847L. Hunt Men, Women, & B. II. xi. 272 To see and be seen in his new camlet. d. attrib.
1526Lanc. Wills (1854) I. 13 My chamlett kyrtell. a1625Fletcher Wom. Prize v. i, His camblet breeches. 1662Pepys Diary 6 Mar., This night my new camelott riding coate..came home. 1696Bp. Patrick Comm. Exod. xxvi. (ed. 2) 507 These Camlet Curtains (as I may call them [of Goats' hair]). 1789Mrs. Piozzi Journ. France I. 5 The women..in long white camblet clokes. 1847L. Hunt Men, Women, & B. 271 His black camletcloak with silver buttons. e. Comb., as camlet-maker; camlet-mingled adj.; also camlet-fly, a fly with mottled wings.
1658Rowland Mouffet's Theat. Ins. 969 Nature bred this with a chamblet mingled coloured coat. 1676Cotton Angler ii. 335 In the middle of May [comes in] the Camlet-fly. 1750Beawes Lex Mercat. (1752) 686 Of the aforesaid wool the Camblet-makers alone take 80000 lb. ▪ II. ˈcamlet, v. For forms see camlet n. [f. prec. n.] trans. To mark or variegate as (watered) camlet; to mark with wavy veins. Hence ˈcamleted ppl. a.; ˈcamleting vbl. n.
1618Bolton Florus i. v. 14 Embroydered Gownes, Cassockes chambleted with figures of palmes. 1626Bacon Sylva §658 Some have the Veines more varied and Chamloted: as Oake, whereof Wainscot is made. Ibid. §741 The Turks have a pretty Art of Chamoletting of Paper. 1652Evelyn Mem. (1827) II. 53, I also inspected the manner of chambletting silk & grograms..in Morefields. 1652Benlowes Theoph. i. liii, In sackcloth chamleted with tears. 1727Bradley Fam. Dict. I. s.v. Alder, They afford the Inlayer Pieces curiously chambletted and very hard. |