The universality of sugarplums got a second boost by the mid-19th century when factories began mass-producing once labor-intensive foods like comfits.

“I watch the sardines,” murmurs Madame, “and the termites, and the crows . . .” Etienne summons a doctor who prescribes rest, aspirin, and aromatic violet comfits.

So I arrived in the Corso and was driving along, thinking no evil, when I was suddenly assailed by a shower of sugar comfits.