At the end of one trail, a homely two-foot lizard with a mottled black body and a brownish-orange face peered over its shoulder at us.

Gently scrape out the brownish-orange membrane and guts — basically everything that’s not the pearly nubbin you eat — and discard overboard.

Each of the mollusks, with striated brownish-orange shells, can easily fill the palm of a person's hand.