It unleashed “the American colonization of French basketball,” said Bosc: a wave from the U.S. of post-collegiate players as well as coaches.

"It's a fresh and light summer fish dish," notes chef-owner Jean-Pierre Bosc, with "a sauce that can be used for any kind of fish."

For most other varieties, including Bosc and Anjou, a slight softness at the stem end will tell you they’re ready to eat or cook.