I remember giant meatballs from a restaurant in Wisconsin and au gratin potatoes from a supper club in the state, too.

For the old, there’s the unreconstructed 1950s charm of the horse racing-themed Turf Supper Club in the neighborhood of Golden Hill.

In the years after this success, Cooke toured the Southern R&B circuit, occasionally performing on gospel bills, occasionally playing in white-oriented supper clubs.