Evenings are enjoyed with an ice-cold Tusker beer and the smell of freshly caught fish cooking on a charcoal jiko stove.

The Thai drinking food – toasted dried squid, fried chopped gourami, cured pork grilled in banana leaves – is especially brilliant with drafts of ice-cold beer.

We had descended for 20 minutes in ice-cold rain and joined a single-lane track – the kind with weeds, mud and stones down the centre.