But not many families can afford 30 quid for a free-range bird that has its feathers shampooed every morning.

Better still, for twice the price of a dirt-cheap chook, a slower-grown free-range bird should taste vastly superior.

Supermarkets say sales of free-range birds would have been even higher if they'd been able to meet demand.

And yet a brace of pheasant costs just 50p - for two free-range birds.

Free-range birds have a higher mortality rate because they are threatened by predators, sudden loud noises and bad weather.

The excellent air-dried salamis, loin (lomo), shoulder (coppa), ham and bresaola all use local free-range meat from traditional breeds.

If you want more humanely reared chicken look for free-range meat, preferably organic; easier said than done in some supermarkets.

Free-range meat also makes an infinitely superior stock to the flesh of bloated birds that have never seen daylight.

Many have an authentic on-farm location, are open seven days a week and stock more than just free-range meat and freshly unearthed vegetables.

Among its products are free-range meat and poultry, real ale, biscuits and preserves.